Archive for ‘Veggie Garden’

April 4, 2011

Mark your calendars!

If you have done a little gardening or a lot, you quickly realize that a garden journal and calendar become two of your best buddies.   If you’re like me, you think you’ll remember when you did things, but when the time comes to recall that info, you, well, you just can’t.

Calendars come in handy for a number of reasons.  For planning, for planting and for reminders.  If you have a perennial garden, live in Zone 4 (like we do in the Twin Cities) and grow ornamental grasses, mark “cut back grasses” on April 1.   If, like this year, there is still snow on the ground on April 1, wait until it’s gone, but ideally by April 15th or as soon as the snow is gone.  Then grab your gloves (dry grasses are like razor blades), some twine to tie the grasses up and out-of-the-way, and your hedge trimmer. Cut off approximately 2/3 of the previous year’s growth, or around 6 – 8″,  but if you see green shoots, don’t cut them off, cut up higher or you’ll end up giving your grasses a crew cut.

Back to veggies… I realized that I may have jumped ahead on the to-do list a little bit, or made assumptions about planning and planting gardens, so I’m going back to the list – and the calendar.  Grab a pen, and again, if you’re in Zone 4, mark “average last frost date” on May 15th.  This is basically the earliest you can safely plant your veggie garden without a significant risk of having everything wiped out by frost.  I typically try to plant around Memorial Day weekend.  By this time the soil will be warming up and plants will begin growing well.  There really isn’t much benefit to planting heat loving plants prior to this because they won’t “do” much and some even say it stunts them.  Plant too much later and you’ll end up losing valuable growing season time and risk having your plants not producing fruit before we get frost again in the fall.

Okay…. back to planning.  Grab the calendar, figure out a window of time that you want to plant (ideally between March 15th and Memorial Day).  Now, count backwards (in weeks) to today.  That will tell you how much time you have before your garden needs to be planted.  So, the next step is to check the back of your seed packets and see how far in advance they suggest “sowing seeds indoors”.  If you need more weeks to grow them than you just counted on the calendar it’s decision time.  Next check the days to maturity.  Count that out on the calendar from your estimated planting date and pray it’s before September 15th (our average 1st frost date in the Twin Cities – another one for the calendar).  If you’re cutting it really close, I would recommend buying seedlings from your local nursery right before you intend to plant.  They will typically have already been started and close to maturity when you purchase them.

If you plan on “direct sowing” into your garden – again make sure to check the “days to maturity”to make sure you have enough time between planting and maturity to enjoy your harvest!

Kate

April 1, 2011

Think outside the box – look to your landscaping!

Many of us grew up knowing veggie gardens as a box.  Either a box in the ground without sides or a box on the ground with sides, also known as a raised garden.

Believe it or not there are many other methods and shapes out there.  But assuming you’re not doing a complete overhaul this spring and either have very little space for a traditional garden or you would just like to add a couple more things to the mix, look to your landscaping*.  Yep, the area right around your house.  You can quickly change ho-hum landscaping into something fun and edible (a.k.a. edible landscaping).  Replace some of the spaces you usually fill with pansies and petunias with tomatoes, herbs or lettuce and your landscaping will start appealing to more than just the sense of sight.  Just imagine grabbing a few leaves of basil and a tomato on your way in the front door, add a little fresh mozzarella and you’ve got a Caprese Salad waiting at your front door!

*IMPORTANT: If you currently fertilize your lawn and landscape in or within 10 feet of this area, give it a rest.  Seriously.  Organic standards call for 3 years.  Trust me, you DON”T want to be eating what you’re “feeding” to your lawn and landscape. (Don’t forget to ditch the conventional fertilizer attachment to your hose too!)

Here’s to thinking outside the box.  Buon Appetito!

Kate

March 31, 2011

Grow up!

If you’ve started planning your garden and thought… “I wish I had more space” make sure you’re looking up.

Many of us think of veggie gardens as flat on the ground, but a lot of veggies love to climb.  Think peas, beans (the non-bush type), cucumbers/squash as well as ornamentals (ornamental beans, edible flowers, etc.).

Not sure what to grow them on?  Anything! Well, almost anything.  Make sure your structure will support the veggie (or fruit) you want to grow.  Trellises, arbors, pergolas, teepees and corn are all good supports, even an old, or not so old, abandoned swing-set will work.  If you have kids, this is a great way to get them involved and an awesome beginning to a children’s garden.

Trellises are great for screening ugly things, arbors make good entrances, pergolas make nice shade, teepees make great hide outs and a swing set or other found object adds a little humor and whimsy to the garden.  Bonus!

Have you already grown up?  Share the fun you’ve had!

Kate

March 28, 2011

Veggies – get planning!

Today I’m happy.  Hopeful happy.  It’s a feeling I get every spring (never mind that the weather and the calendar aren’t communicating very well these days, it is spring).

I’m hopeful, excited and optimistic about what this coming growing season will bring.  Like most, I have a spring to-do list about a mile long… plan my veggie garden, start seeds, order seedlings, clean-up what I left behind last fall, prep the soil and get planting.

Where do I start? The wish list. Oh, that wasn’t even on my list!  My son and I came up with a list of enough plants to feed most of the state, assuming we have a perfect growing season and all of them flourish.  We can hope, right?

Next, I compare our wish list to reality.  How much space do I have? Where did I put everything last year?  What worked?  What didn’t? If you don’t have a garden journal, start one.  It makes this much easier next year.  All of this information is really important for the health of your soil and your plants.

Whatever you do, do NOT plant everything where you planted it last year! Ideally, give your garden enough room to have at least a 3-year rotation.  In other words don’t plant anything in the same spot until year 4.

Many people ignore this, until they have problems.  It’s much easier to start off on the right foot – here’s why:

Reason #1: Plants need different nutrients – some are heavy users of certain nutrients and some replenish nutrients.  If you keep the same plant in the same spot year after year you will start to notice a decline in your garden. Keep them moving to prevent the soil from getting depleted.

Reason #2: Plant fungus such as Tomato blight stays in the soil.  If your plants got blight last year and you put them in the same spot this year, guess what?  They’ll get blight this year.  You also don’t want to put anything in the same family in that spot either.  (Ex. :tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants and peppers are all in the Solanaceae family.)

Attention container gardeners: These rules apply to containers too.  If you stored them last year and don’t recall what was where, soak them for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water and rinse well.

Back to the plan. Depending on what I planted last year, I tailor the wish list to the available space and then jot out what to put where.

The easiest thing to do for me is put a list of plants in the same family, figure out how many families I have and then set up a plan.  Nothing specific, just A, B, C and D, where A = Solanaceae, B=Brassicaceae, etc.  This makes future planning much easier, then all you need to rotate the letters on your plan.

There are many more layers you can add to your plan, such as companion plants, 2nd plantings, etc.  But we’ll get to those later.

Happy planning!

Kate